Window Installation & Replacement
Windows that seal, slide and shut out the heat — installed so water and air stay outside where they belong.
A window is only as good as the hole it sits in. We see beautiful dual-pane units that leak air like a screen door because whoever set them foamed the gap and called it done — no flashing, no proper sill pan, no thought about where the water goes in a January storm. That's the part that fails, and it's the part we get right. The glass is the easy half.
We replace single windows and whole houses, retrofit and full frame, in stucco, siding and block. We handle the tear-out, the flashing and waterproofing, the install to square and plumb, and the interior and exterior trim that finishes it. One licensed crew, permits pulled where the work requires them, and a written scope before anything comes out of the wall.
Flashing done like it rains here
Sill pan, self-adhered flashing, correct shingle-lap over the weather barrier. It's how water gets out instead of into your wall — and it's what most retrofits skip.
Title 24 handled
We spec low-E, dual-pane units that meet California's energy code and pull the permit so the paperwork is clean at resale. No guessing on U-factor and SHGC.
Square, plumb, sealed
A window shimmed out of square binds, drafts and eventually cracks its seal. We set every unit true and test that it operates before we trim it out.
Retrofit or full-frame — and why it matters
There are two honest ways to replace a window, and picking the wrong one is where a lot of jobs go sideways. A retrofit (or insert) leaves the existing frame in the wall and fits the new window inside it — faster, cleaner, no stucco damage, ideal when the original frame and the surrounding wall are dry and sound. A full-frame replacement strips everything back to the rough opening. It costs more and it disturbs the stucco or siding, but it's the only way to inspect and re-flash the opening.
The deciding factor is usually what's behind the frame. If we find soft wood, staining or a history of leaks during the walk-through, a retrofit just seals the problem inside the wall. We'll tell you which one your opening actually needs and why — not which one is quicker to install.
Glass that earns its keep in the California sun
West and south-facing rooms in Southern California take a beating from afternoon sun, and single-pane or old aluminum-frame windows just hand that heat straight into the house. Modern dual-pane units with a low-E coating and an argon fill reflect a big share of the solar heat while still letting light through. The two numbers that matter are U-factor (how much heat moves through the whole window) and SHGC (how much solar heat gets in) — and Title 24 sets the ceiling for both depending on your climate zone.
We spec the glass package to the orientation of each wall, not one blanket product for the whole house. A north-facing bedroom and a west-facing living room have different problems. Getting that right can noticeably cut how hard the AC works on a hot afternoon and how cold a room feels against the glass in winter — though the actual comfort and energy change depends on your home, your HVAC and how you live in it.
Coastal, wildfire and HOA realities
Where you are in Southern California changes the window. Near the coast, salt air corrodes cheap hardware and eats aluminum frames — vinyl and fiberglass hold up far better in that humidity. In the wildfire-prone foothills, code may call for tempered or dual-pane assemblies and non-combustible detailing, and we build to whatever your jurisdiction requires. And if you're in an HOA, the frame color, grid pattern and even the operation style are often spelled out in the rules.
We flag all of this up front. There's nothing worse than a garage full of the wrong windows because nobody checked the CC&Rs, so we ask about your HOA and your zone before we order anything, and we can supply the product data your board or the building department asks for.
A process built around no surprises
Measure & assess the opening
We measure each opening, check whether the existing frames and stucco are sound, and figure out retrofit versus full-frame before we quote. Guessing here costs you later.
Product & fixed quote
You get a window recommendation — frame material, glass package, operation — with U-factor and SHGC that meet Title 24, plus a line-item price. Nothing is ordered until you sign off.
Tear-out & flashing
We pull the old units, inspect the rough opening for rot or water damage, then install the sill pan and flashing so the opening is watertight before the new window ever touches it.
Set, shim & seal
Each window goes in square and plumb, shimmed at the right points, fastened to spec, then sealed and insulated around the frame — foam that doesn't bow the jambs.
Trim, operate & walk
Interior and exterior trim, stucco patch or siding close-up, then we operate every sash and lock with you and check the exterior seal before we call it done.
Everything, under one scope
- Removal and haul-away of existing windows
- Rough-opening inspection for rot and water damage
- Sill pan and self-adhered flashing
- Supply and install of dual-pane, low-E windows
- Shimming, fastening and insulating to square and plumb
- Interior and exterior trim, stucco patch or siding close-up
- Permit and Title 24 documentation where required
Built with the good stuff
Window Installation — common questions
How do I know if I need retrofit or full-frame windows?
It comes down to what's behind the existing frame. If the frame and wall are dry and sound, a retrofit is faster and cleaner. If we find water damage or rot during the walk-through, full-frame is the only way to fix and re-flash the opening properly. We check before we recommend.
Will new windows lower my energy bills?
Dual-pane low-E windows can reduce how much heat moves through the glass and how hard your AC works on hot afternoons. How much you actually save depends on your home, your HVAC and your habits, so we won't quote you a percentage — we'll spec the right glass for each wall and let it do its job.
Do you pull permits?
For most window replacements in California, yes. The work has to meet Title 24 energy code, and the permit plus the product documentation keeps your paperwork clean at resale. We handle the permit and the inspection under our license.
How long does a whole-house window job take?
Most homes are one to three days of on-site work once the windows are in hand, depending on the count and whether it's retrofit or full-frame. We give you a schedule up front so you know which openings are out on which day.
My HOA has rules about windows — can you work with that?
Yes. We ask about your HOA before ordering and match the frame color, grid pattern and operation to the CC&Rs. We can also provide the product data sheets your board needs to approve the change.
Do you offer a warranty?
Yes. Our installation labor is warrantied in writing, and we pass through the manufacturer's warranty on the windows — which typically covers the glass seal and hardware and depends on correct installation.
What window installation customers say
“They gutted our 1980s bathroom and turned it into something out of a magazine. The crew showed up on time every single day and cleaned up before they left. Worth every penny.”
“Our AC quit during a July heat wave and they had a new unit in the next morning. Honest pricing, no upselling, and the house has never been this comfortable.”
“We had engineered hardwood put in across the whole first floor. The installers were meticulous about the transitions and baseboards. Looks seamless.”
Homeowners often pair this with
Planning window installation? Let's talk.
Tell us what you're planning and we'll set up a free, no-pressure estimate — usually within a day.
Licensed & insured — CSLB #1033999